Please note, the color will automatically match Print Core 2’s color. Next, select Per Model Settings (left side of the screen), then Print Model with Print Core 2. If you want to change the print core, select the model by left clicking on it. The material color set per print core relates to the color of the corresponding model. Set print core per model. All loaded objects are set (by default) to be printed using Print Core 1. If your Ultimaker 3 is connected to Cura via the network, and loaded with the right print cores and materials, Cura will automatically sync to it.ģ. Cura is developed by Ultimaker to make 3D. Cura is loaded with generic materials which don’t represent colors, so to choose a colored material, you’ll need to go to Ultimaker > PLA > Color. This software package prepares your 3D model into instructions that your 3D printer requires to produce an object. Print Core 2 should contain the same, but with your different color. Print Core 1 should contain a print core AA 0.4 loaded with PLA (your first color). Set the print cores and materials. You’ll need to check that the print cores and materials are correct (using the sidebar). To view some model examples, just browse popular 3D model websites, searching for ‘dual color’ or ‘dual material’. You can also load multiple files simultaneously if you want to speed the process up. Simply select the file you want to get started. You can load both parts into Cura by selecting the Open File icon in the top left corner, which will display all the available files. ![]() In this tutorial, we will use a famous dual color Ultimaker hand drill model. Load the model. To make your dual color print, you’ll need to export two model files, which have been created to fit together. Reasonable strength is provided without eating up too much layer using this. And the setting would make sure it is printing one diagonal direction per layer. The default consideration of Cura slicer is a grid-shaped infill. Here’s a handy guide, explaining how to create a dual color print. Cura Ultimaker Tutorial Step 4: Infill pattern control. Printing with two colors not only looks visually impressive but makes it easier to highlight aspects of your 3D printed model. This series of guides explains how to use your 3D printing software to achieve the best possible printing results. This should be enough to get me started! I'll see how it goes.Your Ultimaker 3 has a wealth of exciting new features, and Cura is designed to help you get the most from them. Sadly I'm not very good with "guides" or things like that, but I hope the suggestions help. I realize this was a lot of info that isn't that easy to follow. Cura's marking of each layer of code is invaluable if your going to edit manually. You could also edit the gcode manually in notepad ++ like I do, which also allows you to change temperature, speeds, or whatever on specific layers. G1 Z14.10 F2700 <- add these two to move the Z offset -.9mm for example G92 Z15.00 You could add two lines to the start gcode in Cura that looks like this below this line "G1 Z15.0 F2700 move the platform down 15mm". You can then decide how you want to fix this. This video has everything you need to know about Curas support system, from per model settings, to printing a model AS support, to custom supports, and supp. Cancel out of the print and lower the number until your "properly" flattening the first layer onto the glass (in my case that number would currently be G1 Z14.10 since my offset off by almost a milimeter). Then start a print and notice how far off the glass you are when it starts extruding into the air. If you have no means to measure it, use notepad ++ to change the G1 Z15.0 at the top of the output to say G1 Z18.0 to give yourself an extra 3mm to start off with. As long as your bed is level you can set this yourself in the gcode since Cura doesn't give an easy option to do so. The last IMPORTANT thing is to get the Z offset correct. ![]() It pauses while the temp changes to your numbers. I change the bed temp and head temp depending on what I'm doing, but expect the DaVinci to pause before it prints if you select something other than what the cartridge would put the temp at. I've set the speeds to be very slow at 45, 20, 40, 30, 30 (from Travel speed going down) and on the basic tab my first layer speed is 30. In my case the filament I use is a bit small, so I've set that to be 1.60 with flow at 100% since that is what mine measures at. ![]() ![]() If you use w34's modded XYZware to load already sliced gcode from Cura onto your printer, it will automatically change the G0 commands to G1.īeyond that I changed my Cura settings to the bed at 200X200X200, build shape is square and flavor to reprap marlin / sprinter in it's "machine" settings with heated bed checked (DaVinci 1.0) If I ever want to use the multi object print one at a time feature I'll have to come up with settings for the other side of that page, but I haven't tried that yet.
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